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ct4mom
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« Reply #40 on: May 26, 2009, 04:18:00 PM » |
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Wayne you make it looks so simple thanks for the pics.
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Lou Ann
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« Reply #41 on: May 28, 2009, 07:28:02 AM » |
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I think strongline would be the most difficult to use on things like this. This maybe a case for the braided line and certainly a good application for 14 gauge wire all the way around.
I hope Strongline was not the best choice -- I worked on this Tuesday and got it soldered on but I had to stop because it was getting too hot and the solder was just going through. I have a lot of finish work to do today to make the solder look pretty -- if it is even possible... I have one more of these to finish and I'm debating using the braided reinforcing or the wire -- will depend on if the local hardware store has any 14 ga.; I was able to get 12 ga. yesterday but don't think that will be pliable enough to cooperate better than the strongline. |
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Rebecca
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« Reply #42 on: May 28, 2009, 08:51:07 AM » |
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In my opinion, strongline would be the hardest. I would have used the braided wire; it is the easiest.
Rebecca
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Lou Ann
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« Reply #43 on: May 28, 2009, 09:21:41 AM » |
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In my opinion, strongline would be the hardest. I would have used the braided wire; it is the easiest.
Rebecca
I realized it after I had it cut that it was going to be a you know what and I should have stopped there and put it back in the bag but I felt I needed to try and see what happened... now I know and won't be making that mistake again any time soon, I hope I just wasn't confident that the braided would be strong enough until Wayne posted his comment about it and that was already too late |
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Wayne
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« Reply #44 on: May 28, 2009, 10:11:58 AM » |
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Braided line will be the easiet to apply but would be my choice if I could not do wire. Sometimes, as in my 'wings', 12 gauge is too hard to use with fragile designs adn 14 is used. But remember that you do not bend the wire or stongline on the glass piece but bend it with your hands or pliers and then move it to the glass piece. Strongline is the least choice of mine. search for 'braided' here www.glasscrafters.biz |
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Graham
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« Reply #45 on: May 28, 2009, 01:22:54 PM » |
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Restrip (copper or brass) would be my choice. Thought Strongline is probably stronger, it's a bitch to work with, rather like trying to work with a watch spring. The restrip bends laterally ver easily, and stays bent.
Either one (or heavy gauge wire for that matter) absorb a lot of heat and then let go of it quickly. Solder then re-liquifies and runs like water. Timing is important. Hang around one second too long, the bead disappears and it's back to square one.
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Lou Ann
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« Reply #46 on: May 28, 2009, 01:36:45 PM » |
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Restrip (copper or brass) would be my choice. Thought Strongline is probably stronger, it's a bitch to work with, rather like trying to work with a watch spring. The restrip bends laterally ver easily, and stays bent.
Either one (or heavy gauge wire for that matter) absorb a lot of heat and then let go of it quickly. Solder then re-liquifies and runs like water. Timing is important. Hang around one second too long, the bead disappears and it's back to square one.
Got my terms confused again -- I was using the copper restrip and I had a lot of the re-liquifying and going through; tried turning the iron down but I think everything was just too hot at that point; hope to get back to it once the 9yr old get board with glass today... |
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nansea121
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« Reply #47 on: May 29, 2009, 06:57:52 PM » |
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I like the restrip/strongline idea! Usually, in weak areas I add a gusset of clear glass to the problem area.
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Lou Ann
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« Reply #48 on: May 29, 2009, 07:19:08 PM » |
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Usually, in weak areas I add a gusset of clear glass to the problem area.
explain please... |
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nansea121
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« Reply #49 on: May 29, 2009, 07:39:21 PM » |
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Usually, in weak areas I add a gusset of clear glass to the problem area.
explain please... Here is a cardinal I did a few years back. That clear glass gusset is barely visible, especially if you use regular window glass. I used some between the branch and his belly which makes it alot easier to solder. I usually make a nice raised bead of solder around the outside edge. The trick with that is to have the rheostat of your iron turned down (at around 6)so that it's cool enough to to get the solder to 'draw up' when you lightly tap the edge of the foil with your iron. Too hot and the solder will be too liquidy and fall off like water. My companion did the same thing with his fish. But now that I've heard about the restrip idea, I'm going to give that a try. |
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« Last Edit: May 29, 2009, 07:51:16 PM by nansea121 »
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Lou Ann
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« Reply #50 on: May 29, 2009, 07:51:10 PM » |
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Thanks Nancy,
won't work for the area that is currently broken but will work to strengthen the legs... cardinal will work for the cardinal I do too
thanks for sharing
Lou Ann
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nansea121
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« Reply #51 on: May 29, 2009, 07:53:15 PM » |
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Thanks Nancy,
won't work for the area that is currently broken but will work to strengthen the legs... cardinal will work for the cardinal I do too
thanks for sharing
Lou Ann
I think a clear gusset would work well on the upper part of her neck and also around the under part of her beak. Did you get the restrip to work? |
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nansea121
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« Reply #52 on: May 29, 2009, 08:12:16 PM » |
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This is just a thought, but you could use a clear gusset where the blue star is at the base of the neck and inside where the beak is. A clear glass insert could be used on the inside space of the legs.
I would curve the outer edge of those 2 gussets so they blend in with the rest of the body.
Or restrip or wire:)
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« Last Edit: May 29, 2009, 08:13:59 PM by nansea121 »
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Lou Ann
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« Reply #53 on: May 29, 2009, 08:21:29 PM » |
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I think a clear gusset would work well on the upper part of her neck and also around the under part of her beak. Did you get the restrip to work?
I have the restrip on but I got everything too hot and it was just melting through so I cleaned the flux off and put it aside to cool -- had wanted to finish it today but I had a headache and I can't solder when I have a headache I need to get some clear glass before I can do any of the gussets... |
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nansea121
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« Reply #54 on: May 29, 2009, 08:35:00 PM » |
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[I have the restrip on but I got everything too hot and it was just melting through so I cleaned the flux off and put it aside to cool -- had wanted to finish it today but I had a headache and I can't solder when I have a headache
I need to get some clear glass before I can do any of the gussets...
Ohhhh... I'm sorry you have a headache LA. Best to put it aside now and think about pleasant thoughts:) Tomorow, if you tackle that again, how about turning your iron down a little. Then see if you can position your bird into a clamp so you can have one hand free for the iron, and the other to hold a pair of pliers to hold down on the restrip while it cools. Now you have me curious!!! I'm going to have to try that. Sounds like you should apply heat only long enough to tack solder, then take the iron away and hold the strip down with pliers until the solder has set. When it's all cooled down enough, go back to the start and add more solder. Go have a nice glass of something. My butt's getting numb sitting here...lol. So much to read! Nice forum. |
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Lou Ann
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« Reply #55 on: May 29, 2009, 09:56:30 PM » |
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Thanks Nancy,
I'm hoping to be able to do the cleanup soldering this weekend...
I had my rheostat down at about a 6, I normally solder at 7 and as I was trying to bead the front so the restrip wasn't so evident, I was getting solder over the edge and it was the tinning of the edge that was causing the bleed through -- I was hardly keeping the soldering iron in one place so I think everything just got too hot being such a small piece -- it prints on a normal sheet of paper... if I can get a good bead on the front, the back will be no problem because it is basically just tinning that side
this is a great place, isn't it...
LA
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Kev
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« Reply #56 on: May 29, 2009, 10:19:11 PM » |
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LA..once you get the restrip on, why not cover it over with a piece of lead came wrapped around the entire body to make it uniform in appearance.
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Lou Ann
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« Reply #57 on: May 30, 2009, 07:20:14 AM » |
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LA..once you get the restrip on, why not cover it over with a piece of lead came wrapped around the entire body to make it uniform in appearance.
never thought of it... probably because I've never tried using lead came -- I've only framed with zinc and wasn't really happy with it... |
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nansea121
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« Reply #58 on: May 30, 2009, 08:18:05 AM » |
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Morning Lou Ann:) See how you like your beaded up soldered edge. If not, then smooth out the raised soldered bead and add a lead came around the edge as Kev suggested. Usually you want a fair number of connections to attach the lead came to so it will stay flat against the glass edge, but you have some good outside curves along the upper neck and upper wing area to support that idea.
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PiscesGlass
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« Reply #59 on: May 30, 2009, 08:20:05 AM » |
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Actually the lead came would make this conversation irrelevant...because it would give the piece the support that it needs...it might need to be a very narrow piece of lead..
De
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