Helloooooo Kitty

[Marsha]

I was an idiot and took this out of the kiln while it was too hot and it broke in half!!!   So I put it back in a did a full fuse on it and I really like the way it has turned out!!   Do you think $25.00 is too much to ask for it???

 

[AglassAct]

I have no clue as to price, but it is adorable.

[Kev]

Are you sure you want to sell it since it was broken. Now..not being an old hand at fusing I am sure others would know better, but I believe there is an increased chance that it could break again on it's own in the future. For that reason, I won't sell anything that broke and was remelted together...it is cute though.

[Marsha]

ohhhh, I didn't know that!!  Guess I'll make her another one and keep this one for me!!!!  Thanks Kev!

[Stephen Richard]

Are you sure you want to sell it since it was broken. Now..not being an old hand at fusing I am sure others would know better, but I believe there is an increased chance that it could break again on it's own in the future. For that reason, I won't sell anything that broke and was remelted together...it is cute though.

Well.... No.  But it does depend on how well you annealed it on the re-firing.  It also depends on wether it was a full or tack fuse re-firing.  Pieces repaired by tack fusing will not be adequately fused together for the long term.  A full fused piece that is adequately annealed will be fine for the long term.

A fully fused piece made up of a number of cut pieces is no different from a piece that has broken by dropping.  The are both separate pieces of glass that are to be fused together by heat.  When both are fused and annealed they will have equal strength.  What is important is the annealing.  And knowing that it is adequate.  That means testing.

What stimulates these ideas would be an interesting study.  It might be that a piece broke because it was poorly annealed, and re-fired witht the same schedule - in that case of course it will break again.  But a properly fused and annealed piece has no greater chance of breaking than one which survived the first firing.

Of coursed, the piece may have incompatabilities.  In that case no amount of refiring will make it a lasting piece.  You need to know what you did and why it broke before you know that you can re-fire to get a sound piece.

[Kev]

That's good to know..and it makes sense to me. I was kind of wondering why myself, since as you stated it is not much different than the initial process to begin with.

Marsha...disregard my statement. What Stephen said makes sense. If it's annealed properly, there should be no more risk with it than with any other piece.

It's great getting different opinions and information.

Thanks all!

[Marsha]

Initially the flower was a full fuse and the kitty was tack fused. All the glass was System 96.  It broke straight across from the upper left ear to the lower right petal. I did a full fuse to try and fix it.  Here is my schedule...
1.400 1000 10
2.200 1100 0
3.600 1480 20
4.9999 1000 10
5.200 960 30
6.200 750 0
7.400 100 0
I use this for almost all full fuses. I have an EXTREMELY small kiln too. I have been told that makes a difference also.
 Thank you to both of you for all your help!! 

[Theresa]

Cute!!

How tall/wide is it?

[ct4mom]

Marsha, That is adorable and I'm sure some young lady would love it!! Thanks for all the info Stephen

[Stephen Richard]

Initially the flower was a full fuse and the kitty was tack fused. All the glass was System 96.  It broke straight across from the upper left ear to the lower right petal. I did a full fuse to try and fix it.  Here is my schedule...
1.400 1000 10
2.200 1100 0
Why do you slow from 1000 to 1100?  The bubble squeeze is in the 50F or so before 1200F.
3.600 1480 20
4.9999 1000 10
I know Spectrum recommend this brief soak at 1000 but I have never understood their logic for it.  Their logic would apply equally well at 960F
5.200 960 30
6.200 750 0
7.400 100 0
I use this for almost all full fuses. I have an EXTREMELY small kiln too. I have been told that makes a difference also.
Another difference is that with a small kiln you are working near the sides.  Depending on how even the heat is in your kiln, you may find that you have to slow down more as you approach the sides.  You can do a check on the eveness of the heat in your kiln by running the bullseye test: http://www.bullseyeglass.com/pdf/technotes_tipsheets/TechNotes_01.pdf Thank you to both of you for all your help!! 

[Becki]

I know Spectrum recommend this brief soak at 1000 but I have never understood their logic for it.  Their logic would apply equally well at 960F

They don't recommend it that I'm aware of.

http://www.system96.com/Pages/FiringGuideF.html

[Audrey]

I have no idea about pricing, but a child would love to have that.

[Marsha]

It's about five inches each way.  A friend at work had me make it for her daughter's car.  I hope she likes it..if not I'll keep for me!!

I got the schedule from a friend that has the same size kiln. I hate to change something that I know works for me...but what is your suggestion on the 1000 soak?  Take it out?

[Kev]

Spectrum does actually have a 10 minute soak listed at 1000 degrees for 3/8" glass in the cooling phase leading down from peak temp on the way to 950, but does not have one listed on the ramping up segments.


Becki..I just checked your link....that spectrum schedule is different than the one I have. I have a 4 page guide given to me by my glass store and it's not that schedule. I wonder if they have changed their schedules recently?

[Marsha]

Sooooo should I combine parts 1 and 2 and just go 400  to  1100??

[Kev]

I would combine them up to 1150, then add  50/hour to 1250, then proceed with the rest of your schedule. That will give you a bubble squeeze.

[Stephen Richard]

I know Spectrum recommend this brief soak at 1000 but I have never understood their logic for it.  Their logic would apply equally well at 960F

That's what you get for not checking back for a few years!   Yes, I now see that they no longer recommend an equalisation soak at 1000F. Thanks.
They don't recommend it that I'm aware of.

http://www.system96.com/Pages/FiringGuideF.html

[Becki]

Becki..I just checked your link....that spectrum schedule is different than the one I have. I have a 4 page guide given to me by my glass store and it's not that schedule. I wonder if they have changed their schedules recently?

I don't think there was a very recent change because I pulled this up a few months ago for someone else. I don't have reason to go there very often anymore for firing schedules.  I do know that years ago they had a hold at 300 on the first ramp up...that never made much sense to me.

[Ian]

Personally I would not sell anything that I had "repaired" in the kiln. I would rather be sure than sorry!!
Ian

[Marsha]

Thanks again for all the help!!

[Stephen Richard]

Personally I would not sell anything that I had "repaired" in the kiln. I would rather be sure than sorry!!
Ian

This raises an interesting question.  How do you ensure that the piece - any piece, including new - is "safe" or robust enough to be sold?  What checks do people make on the "saleability" of their pieces.  What do people do to test the fitness for purpose of their work?  In short - how do you know the piece is ok?

[Kev]

I looked at the Spectrum firing schedule sheet I was referring to...it was published in 2006. I guess they changed them at some point in time. The new schedules are certainly easier and make more sense.

[Becki]

Well, that explains that, doesn't it?

[Kev]

It sure does! I like the look of these new schedules a lot!