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ct4mom
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« Reply #20 on: August 02, 2010, 09:06:24 AM » |
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Well Kev it sure looks awesome from here. I love it!
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Kev
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« Reply #21 on: August 02, 2010, 09:07:36 AM » |
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Thanks guys!
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Judy K
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« Reply #22 on: August 02, 2010, 10:15:49 AM » |
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Forgot to mention it's gorgeous!
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Kev
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« Reply #23 on: August 02, 2010, 10:17:08 AM » |
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Thanks :)
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Kev
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« Reply #24 on: August 02, 2010, 12:45:52 PM » |
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Here are some better pics. you can see the base better. I tried the Loctite glass glue...it was a no go as was the Triolyse. In order for those glues to work well, there can be no gaps and with fused items, you are at the mercy of the molds. The 2 pieces were not a perfect fin in that there were little gaps. I ended up using E6000 and it worked like a charm.
The last pic shows what I was talking about how some of the black went dull on the 2 ends of the piece. This might be because they closer to the elements of the kiln during the slumping. Not really noticeable unless you really look for it, but I know it's there, and now all of you know as well...LOL. I love it though and will keep it for myself.
I also did a trial with a new UV glue "KOA 100sp" made by Kemxert Corp. I applied a drop between 2 pieces of clear glass. This glue needs to be exposed to longwave UV light so I bought a 22" black light from Lowes and exposed the glue to it for a few minutes. It cured beautifully and was a solid as a rock, and crystal clear. I placed it outside in the sun for a few hours to see if it would turn yellow...nope..stayed crystal clear. I'll have to do a trial now with cathedral colored glass to see how it works. It won't work for opal glass as the UV light will not be able to cure the glue.
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« Last Edit: August 02, 2010, 12:47:59 PM by Kev »
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Judy K
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« Reply #25 on: August 02, 2010, 02:53:35 PM » |
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very interesting with the glue.
I think the dull stuff is ......... I don't know. I was going to say it had something to do with the irid coating but that had been sanded off at that location. Hmmmmm. Did you scrubb it real well after sandblasting?
Hmmmm
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Kev
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« Reply #26 on: August 02, 2010, 03:00:43 PM » |
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Yes I scrubbed it well. I think it's from overheating.
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Judy K
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« Reply #27 on: August 02, 2010, 04:26:33 PM » |
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But over heating glass makes it shiny. If it is over heating it has to be the irid coating causing it. Maybe you could post this question on warmglass.com and let the experts wiegh in. I would love to know what happened to it.
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Kev
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« Reply #29 on: August 03, 2010, 12:08:26 AM » |
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If that was the case is should be consistantly across all the areas that were sandblasted not just the 2 ends.
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Becki
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Posts: 1919
Be yourself. Everyone else is taken.
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« Reply #30 on: August 03, 2010, 05:07:15 AM » |
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If that was the case is should be consistantly across all the areas that were sandblasted not just the 2 ends.
Not necessarily. |
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PiscesGlass
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« Reply #31 on: August 03, 2010, 07:18:56 AM » |
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I think it's beautiful Kev! And thanks for the good info about the glues!
De
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Kev
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« Reply #32 on: August 03, 2010, 08:12:54 AM » |
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I'm wondering if sandblasting it and then fusing it face down made a difference. Maybe I'll have to try a a piece blasted, fused face up, and then flipped over and fired again to get the texture on the iridized coating and then slump. You would think a full fuse even face down would have turned the blasted areas back to shiny black again.
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Kev
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« Reply #34 on: August 03, 2010, 09:04:55 AM » |
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Well that explains that! I blasted this glass before fusing to a clear base with the irid side face down for the full fuse. I suspected that might be the problem....but, is the slumping temp high enough to get it shiny again? If it was, wouldn't it have gone shiny when I slumped it anyway?
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Kev
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« Reply #36 on: August 03, 2010, 09:15:16 AM » |
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So..I should blast, fuse, flip, fire polish and then slump?
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ct4mom
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« Reply #38 on: August 03, 2010, 09:27:28 AM » |
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Whew this is beginning to sound like who's on first!!!!
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Judy K
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« Reply #39 on: August 03, 2010, 01:42:41 PM » |
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I don't think you can have a texture on the irid and the black shiny at the same time. They are on the same surface and responding to the same processes.
The irid can look like saran wrap at a low 1300's contour temp and the black can shine up at 1350+. You might beble to find a sweet spot that gives you that difference.
So glad you solved the black surface question.
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