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Author Topic: Knife for lead came  (Read 817 times)
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Alan
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« on: June 16, 2010, 09:15:23 PM »
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After doing a couple of smaller projects with lead came, and using only lead cutting diagonal pliers - I am seriously considering getting a good quality lead knife. The lead cutting diagonal pliers are OK, but I'm not exactly pleased with the amount of came that I'm messing up due to inaccurate cuts and from what I've seen on the web, a knife would probably be a better way to go.

I know that there are several different manufacturers of lead knives out there but I have no idea as to which one would give me the most bang for the buck and I am looking for recommendations/suggestions/etc.

Thanks in advance.
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PiscesGlass
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« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2010, 07:00:29 AM »
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I've never used the knife, however a friend of mine had a very old one, you probably can no longer buy that had a metal insert on the handle end, used to not only cut the lead, but push it firmly into place with the other. 

Why are you getting inaccurate cuts with the lead dykes?  Usually when I'm trying to figure out the length of my next piece of lead I use a horseshoe nail to score where I need to make the next cut and go from there.  You should also be cutting with the flat side of the dykes toward the end of the piece you're trying to cut.  I've found them handy to have when I've needed to cut angles one side or the other, or both.

De
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Audrey
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« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2010, 07:59:47 AM »
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I haven't used lead much, but my dykes worked well once I was sure to put the flat side against the piece I was using. The only waste came from the scrap that was next to the wrong side of the dykes that had to have a fresh cut for the next piece. I have a knife as well, but the dykes seem easier to use for most circumstances.
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Rebecca
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« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2010, 08:15:03 AM »
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The metal in the handle is usually for hammering horseshoe nails.  Alan, it is a matter of what kind of knife you get used to.  Just be sure it is something that you can sharpen and that and feels comfortable in your hand.  You WIGGLE the knife through the lead, not just force down.  Vic likes to use one made from a metal paint scraper.  I use a store-bought one, but I don't know the brand.  Some people swear by one that I think is called "Don Carlos" and some people hate it.  I've never tried it, so I can't tell you how I feel about it.  You will have to find out for yourself what works best for you.  They are great for angles that are tricky to do with the dykes.

Rebecca
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Kev
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« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2010, 09:07:50 AM »
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I tried the lead knife, but did not have a lot of success with it and went to the dykes. I suspect even though it felt sharp, it was not sharp enough.
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TodB
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« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2010, 10:08:47 AM »
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A lead knife must be thin-bladed so it's easy to sharpen and strong enough so it won't flex, bend or break. Vic's modified putty knife looks like a good option. There are other small knives in your hardware store which might also work.

I absolutely love my Don Carlos knife and use the weighted handle constantly. However, I also use an X-Acto mitre box and back saw for lots of lead cutting as it is more efficient for me.

One thing I've noticed is that most folks do not, in fact, sharpen knives very well. Like other skills, it must be practiced. Add some soap or wax on the blade to help it slide through the leads. - Tod
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Wayne
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« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2010, 10:48:33 AM »
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I have used the same lead knife since the 70's.  I do have a spare which has never been used!  The key to being successful using a lead knife is to practice using it.  Most people press too hard.  Rebecca said wiggle the knife as you press and that is necessary.  Also, I sharpen the knife using fine sandpaper so it is super sharp.  Sharpening takes less than a minute.  Sometimes I wax the blade to get it to cut a bit faster and I would imagine soap would work well for that too.  Lead dykes are good but limited.   The lead knife is my cutter, my hammer, and my simple fid.  My thing is not to put it down and grab another tool (which is never close by!).

I bought my original knife here:  http://www.crloo.com/PDF_Page/PG191-193.pdf

Vic uses a cut down putty knife/scrapper to cut the lead.
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Kev
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« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2010, 11:06:13 AM »
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I have one similar to this and is does not cut worth a crap.
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Rebecca
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« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2010, 12:51:11 PM »
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I have
I have one similar to this and is does not cut worth a crap.


I have one of those and I don't like it, too, Kev.  It doesn't sharpen worth a hoot. 

I use a little cutter oil on my sharpening stone.  It seems to let the knife glide through the lead better.  I tried paraffin and I prefer the oil.  I haven't tried soap.

Rebecca
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Glassic
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« Reply #9 on: June 17, 2010, 01:16:31 PM »
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I have the same as Wayne, I sharpen with oil and stone but mostly use the dykes, don't do much lead anyway. Wiggle? I rock!
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Wayne
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« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2010, 03:03:39 PM »
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I have one similar to this and is does not cut worth a crap.

Way back in the 80's I taught classes using lead.  I had purchased some nice (cheap priced too) lead knives with stainless steel blades.  The blades were thicker than my good knives and were very difficult to sharpen.  They never, ever were acceptable to me and only caused problems with my students.  I replaced all of them with the good knives.

I use a wet stone to do most of the sharpening to my knife.  I use very fine sand paper to get the final edge.  I place the sandpaper on the table and hold the knive at about a 20 degree angle with the table and then slice down.  A couple passes on both sides and it is super sharp.
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TodB
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« Reply #11 on: June 18, 2010, 08:14:59 AM »
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In my experience with pocket knives, stainless blades are harder to sharpen well. I, too, have had a couple of "Brand X" lead knives with thick blades and they are actually worse than worthless.

There are many on-line tutorials about knife sharpening and there are many versions of the "very best way to get a razor-sharp edge". Clearly, there really is more than one way to skin the cat.

I don't go too crazy honing my lead knife to a "razor" sharpness since I'm cutting metal in a fairly unforgiving situation. I just pay attention and touch it up as needed. - Tod

PS: I've read that some lay the very fine sandpaper on a piece of glass (firm & flat) and hone the blade that way.
PPS: Never use a grinder on your better edge tools.
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« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2010, 08:27:50 AM »
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Anytime I've tried to use it it's crushed the came. It's been so long now that I can't even remember the right way anymore. Do you cut it down through the heart as opposed to across the channel?
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Rebecca
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« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2010, 08:43:47 AM »
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Anytime I've tried to use it it's crushed the came. It's been so long now that I can't even remember the right way anymore. Do you cut it down through the heart as opposed to across the channel?

Yes.  Mark your angle across the leaf, then cut on your mark with the marked leaf up and the unmarked leaf flat on the table.  WIGGLE the knife through, don't try to muscle it through.

Rebecca
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Kev
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« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2010, 08:54:09 AM »
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Thanks for the reminder. I have a commissioned piece coming up soon, though I am not sure if it will be foil or lead as I have not designed it yet. Should it turn out to be lead, I might give it a go again.
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TodB
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« Reply #15 on: June 19, 2010, 11:03:06 AM »
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I strongly suggest the lead dykes for round leads around ΒΌ" and smaller. Anyone not comfortable with their lead knife will be well-served to consider this alternative. - Tod
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crazyone
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« Reply #16 on: June 20, 2010, 09:02:47 AM »
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has anybody used the lead cutter that takes a replaceable knife blade not sure what they are called sort of looks like pruning shears or tubing cutter.
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Kev
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« Reply #17 on: June 20, 2010, 09:33:55 AM »
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I've never heard of that? Do you have a pic of it?
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Judy K
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« Reply #18 on: June 20, 2010, 03:04:46 PM »
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I am NO expert but have been doing a bit of experimenting.

-I have the old late 1980's Captain hook darger knife with the lead handle. Could not get the hang of it but did not try long.
-Lead dykes I liked for little stuff but I mangle the 1/2" stuff with it.
-Tried hubby's piper cutter, Basically a utility knife blade in a sissor handle that comes down on a cruved cradle for the pipe. Worked great for 45 degree cuts
- bought one at Sears that comes down on a flat surface so I could cut and angle. It has the replaceable blade. It works well but clumbsy.
- constantly went back to the knife I made like Vic's from a 2" putty knife. The metal shaft goes all the way up through the handle so there is no wobble, and the angle of attack is nice on my weak wrist. I can also see the line I am cutting easiest. I am still refining keeping it sharp and I have not perfected my wiggle yet, but I am getting there :).

I'll get photos of the pipe cutters. We only found the flat one at Sears. We looked at a Lowes and Home Depo, but no luck.
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Alan
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« Reply #19 on: June 20, 2010, 03:48:35 PM »
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-Tried hubby's piper cutter, Basically a utility knife blade in a sissor handle that comes down on a cruved cradle for the pipe. Worked great for 45 degree cuts
Is this a PVC pipe cutter?
The one I have would NOT make a very good lead came cutter - blade hardly cuts PVC pipe cleanly, let alone lead came.
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Wayne
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« Reply #20 on: June 20, 2010, 05:24:55 PM »
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I believe Sears came out with the cutting pliers first.  They consist of an upper blade which moves down to a flat/anvil stop.  Many have copied the pliers now.  Some like them for lead and many do not.

I think spending time to cut lead for practice is a necessary part of learning.  When I taught lead classes, the students continuously cut lead for 3 hours.  They were given pictures/drawings of the angles of the cuts.  They were to make hundreds of cuts in the three hours.  At the end, they understood the process and hated lead, hated the lead knives, hated stained glass, hated the blisters and sore fingers, and hated me.  When they began assembling their panels, they knew what to do.

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Judy K
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« Reply #21 on: June 20, 2010, 07:30:26 PM »
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-Tried hubby's piper cutter, Basically a utility knife blade in a sissor handle that comes down on a cruved cradle for the pipe. Worked great for 45 degree cuts
Is this a PVC pipe cutter?
The one I have would NOT make a very good lead came cutter - blade hardly cuts PVC pipe cleanly, let alone lead came.

I should have said hose cutter.
I believe Sears came out with the cutting pliers first.  They consist of an upper blade which moves down to a flat/anvil stop.  Many have copied the pliers now.  Some like them for lead and many do not.

I think spending time to cut lead for practice is a necessary part of learning.  When I taught lead classes, the students continuously cut lead for 3 hours.  They were given pictures/drawings of the angles of the cuts.  They were to make hundreds of cuts in the three hours.  At the end, they understood the process and hated lead, hated the lead knives, hated stained glass, hated the blisters and sore fingers, and hated me.  When they began assembling their panels, they knew what to do.



I sure wish I had the opportunity to take your class.  smiley I may go visit Rebecca one day and make her abuse my hands.
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crazyone
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« Reply #22 on: June 22, 2010, 06:39:27 AM »
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picture well I'll try


or here is a link http://www.delphiglass.com/index.cfm?page=itemView&itemsysid=190903
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Kev
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« Reply #23 on: June 22, 2010, 09:53:03 AM »
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Ah...so that's what they look like...thanks!
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Graham
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« Reply #24 on: June 22, 2010, 11:06:45 AM »
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I sure wish I had the opportunity to take your class.  smiley I may go visit Rebecca one day and make her abuse my hands.


Ain't nobody knows more 'bout 'busin' hands than Rebecca.
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Rebecca
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« Reply #25 on: June 22, 2010, 11:55:55 AM »
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Graham's right about that!  I got 'em and I 'buse 'em.

Rebecca
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