Latest Newbie Etching

[PiscesGlass]

That is a great tip, thanks Kev!! I'll give that a try on the next one I do and see if it works better for me.

Thanks!

De

[Rebecca]

I wonder if you could cover the picture on both sides with clear Contact paper, with a margin all around with just the Contact paper stuck to itself.  Then work under water?

Rebecca

[PiscesGlass]

Now that's another cool idea Rebecca, and if it didn't work, well you can always re-print the picture.  But I suspect, since it doesn't usually take me too long to create one of these, that you could get the job done the way you've suggested.  I know that on Lesley's site, she uses something similar to the water bubbler that you'd use for a fish tank to supply water to her project.  But I'd think that keeping it consistantly wet would be even better.

I'll give that a go and let everyone know how it worked for me.  Maybe a not too deep pan of water...I know that the little I've used of water..has definitely allowed me to make deeper grooves in the glass for highlighting certain aspects of the design.  This idea might be workable!

De

[Kev]

Using a high speed dremmel bit in water really obscures what your doing. I suspect you will find a drip apparatus might make it easier to see what your doing. At least that is my experience when I drill a hole under water.

[Glassic]

Have you thought of working in a shallow tray with hole, over a reservoir and a tiny water pump they cost a few bucks but only have a head of 8"-10", some of them have a waterproof light. I use the light in my Gemini saw it's useful to be sawing over a light box!

De, what is it you want to do with the photo?





 

[PiscesGlass]

I am going to check out a drip feed system and see how much one can be had for..I still need to set up a proper workstation for this...I'd been thinking that an old wooden easel I have might work well and I could attach a light to the top or side of it.
I still need to come up with a workable solution to holding glass in place so that I won't have to hold it with one hand and work on it with the dremel with the other.  I'm going to check around this weekend for something relatively dark colored that would be a non-skid surface.  Plus it will have to be in a very shallow pan or something that water won't bother, and be able to be held in place.  I think I also read somewhere about taking styrofoam and cutting out a spot the size of whatever project I'm working on.

LOL...with the cute squirrel pics, I like the bottom one I think.  On that pic I'd probably draw his outline, where the whitest portions of his body are (and I might even use an etching cream on those really white spots), then using what I have on hand for burrs, I'd start trying to sketch in the hair direction of the darker part of his body.  It's an interesting process with darker hair color, you need to show that there's hair, but you also need to leave enough un-etched areas so that you know that it's dark hair..the lighter areas are much easier..etch more of the glass.  But then you get to his whiskers....which would definitely have to be etched in.  So (I think) that the general way of looking at etching is that it's not really a 'negative' you're looking for, maybe just a black and white image, however I do think that depending on how you view the project and what is easiest for you, the bottom photo could work.  Usually the black areas are not etched, unless you must show hair direction, even depressions in the body of an animal are usually left unetched.  I.E. where legs are joined or to show ribs, or veins, thinking of a horse head..

Usually I use the photo only for outlining, and some animals or items you wouldn't want an outline on..thinking of an animal with curly or long hair.  Most of the detail work I do is from sight or just trying to achieve the best way or showing off features, whtaever works in my head.

De