Designing your glassroom

[JoanFrances]

Well, if it's really big, I remove the grinder from the enclosure temporarily, but 90% of the time, the glass is small enough to use with that large bin. If the piece is abit long and I want to use the flat grinding disc, I turn the grinder slightly at an angle. I use that flat disc alot when I make those beachglass shades.

Dan tried to use a dark blue bin once but it didn't shed enough light onto the worksurface so now he uses a white one that's bigger than the one shown in the pic. Lots of room to maneuver around while grinding with his set-up:)

I attach my shield to a shelf bracket, but even then sometimes my surround gets in the way.  pain in the butt.  LOL

I have one of those shield thingies as well, and find that it generally gets in the way, so I don't use it anymore.

Thank you for the clarification Nancy.  I have to use one of those glass holding thing a ma jigs when I am grinding the glass cause I can't feel my hands, and because of that I have to use a higher amount of water or the glass is to dry.  Anyway without the surround thingie, I would have water and glass dust all over the place.  I think I am gonna give your method a try and see how that works out.  Thanks for posting it Nancy.  

[Rebecca]

Malinda, I would go with the plywood.  I have mine covered with Homasote, but either way you can drive nails in when you need to.  If you are driving nails into it, a little flux stain or burn is not a problem.  It's a work surface, not a dining table.

Rebecca

[nansea121]

It is a working studio and not meant to be as clean as the livingroom:)

It's a work surface, not a dining table.

Rebecca

I like to use Homosote and plywood for work surfaces as well

[Anne]

I use drywall for projects I need to use nails and the like!  I know it's a shop not a dining room but I like being able to get the countertop clean and I guess I just like the look of it.  My hubby has a workshop full of wood surfaces, my shop with it's light countertops is much brighter.

[Malinda]

Just got back from JCP and picking up the rest of the blackout curtians I had ordered and the woodblinds to the glass room. And we went to Home Depot and I sort of have a better idea on what to do where. I say sort of because there are so many cabinet options different sizes, brawers only or doors only or drawers and doors it just depends what you want. The countertops in the back of the store are regular stock items in different lengths. I think I am looking at a 4' piece for the area with the grinder, since it has the backsplash it will make cleanup easier and where I'll cut pieces will have 4' of this cabinet grade birch they sell.

The cabinet grade birch is 3/4" and I think I will use for the table tops in the "build" area as well.

I have to futz with the layout some more because I would like to work continuously left to right but I may not have enough wall space to do so.

Back to the drawing board.....

[Anne]

Malinda, is there a salvage store in your area?  That's where I got my cabinets - someone had reno'd their kitchen.  My cabinets were perfectly good and because they were used they were an awesome price!

[Malinda]

Probably, I need to look around the yellow pages for things like that, I'm just not sure.

[JoanFrances]

Malinda, in most towns there is a clearing house that the lumber yards use for over stocks and slight seconds.  I know you are building a new house and maybe seconds sounds to low key for you, but you can check them out anyway.  We have a place they call "Grossman's bargain outlet" and believe me I would rather pay 100.00 for something than the 400.00 that Lowes or Home depot would get for almost the same identical item.  For instance, they have a kitchen island with granite top, 2 shelves and 2 drawers for $249.00 that is selling everywhere else for $676.00

The only thing it takes is time to scope the things out, and you can save a bundle

[Malinda]

I'm actually finding Home Depot prices not to be too bad. I am only looking at the unfinished 2'x2' cabinets that come with 1 drawer and a door, those alone are $80 BUT there are other sizer and combinations that may end up with less individual pieces and the same overall combination of drawers and doors. The 6' counter top is $69.00 and the 4'x8' Birchwood pieces is $40.00. I'd love to get both tabletops out the Birch BUT I don't like the idea of them only being 2' wide.

Building a home or not I am definately not opposed to saving money on setting any part of this house up. Trust me I am a bargain shopper. We bought some bathroom stuff at Lowes yesterday, paid for and walked out. Went to Home Depot to compare the prices and if HD had been less money I would have gotten it from them and returned the stuff to Lowes.

Luckily we have the time to play around and find the better deals. I just need to research the stores here since I am not familiar with them.

[Lynn]

In my area, the best bet for bargains on cabinets and such, if you don't care too much about them being pretty, is at the Habitat for Humanity thrift stores.  A lot of folks donate old cabinets and such when they remodel, so they end up with a lot of usable but ugly cabinets, etc.  If you have a Habitat store in your area (or something similar) it might be worth checking out, as long as you don't mind getting used/ugly/mismatched cabinets.

[Scooch]

Here is something that I did when I put together my table.  I wired it to power.  There is an outlet at each corner of the table.  This way I can plug the iron in at each end and the wire is not dragging across open space.  The table is plugged in by extension cord to the main outlet.  Works well.

[Glassic]

Mornin' Mal, if you find a better price between Lowes and HD they will meet or beat prices, not just on the same brands. I took my list in for the bathroom and HD found comparable products, met prices and overall gave me a better deal. Didn't have to take anything back.

[PiscesGlass]

I'd also check out Craigslist.com for used cabinets..one idea I like would be to get a couple (at least) old kitchen cabinets..screw them together side by side and put a piece of countertop, or plywood on the top..you could even get fancy and put some wheels (with brakes) on the bottom of the cabinets and you've got a movable work surface.

We also have a 2nd store here, Hancock Lumber..great deals on doors, windows, cabinets,etc that are all brand new..might have a blemish or mfg. mistake..awesome deals if the blem isn't something hugely noticeable. 

Lots of things to think about!  LOL. De

[ct4mom]

when I moved my glassroom recently I wanted a glass storage that I could close off when the kids are here as the room is also an access to the backyard. I purchased a closet unit from Lowes and as you know I had a major glass colapse as we never realized the bottom wasn't reinforced enough. Anyway Art did a great job reinforcing the whole unit and I feel very good about it now. We added a sheet of 3/4 mdf to the interior and more studs under the bottom. I love it and I can close it off when not in use.

[JoanFrances]

WOW Di, you must have to use a ladder to pick glass from that high.  Nice set up

[ct4mom]

Not really Joan its 72 " high and the top is mostly storage for nuggets and not so used tools. thanks

[Malinda]

So here are a couple design layouts I have come up with. I would love to hear your thoughts, good or bad.

Thanks everyone.

[Malinda]

Here is the third option....

[JoanFrances]

Malinda, of the three layouts, I personally perfer design #1 except your light box would serve you better at your layout/design area, other wise you will be walling back and forth to the area as you grind and fit you're pieces or layout glass choices. 

When possible, I like having my pattern drawn on clear glass which lays across my light table, (with the frosted glass insert removed) then when I am cutting, grinding and  fitting my pattern pieces I can see that they fit properly, and also see that the glass colors that touch each other look like I had envisioned they would. 

Seeing you are in the design mode, I would have a light table built as large as possible so that in the future should you want to expand the size of panel you will be working on will fit the light box. 

The size of my light box is the one thing I am not happy with in my studio, and still planning on building a larger one, which will be housed in my portable work table.

[nansea121]

I like that 80% of everything is movable. I love equipment on wheels! It enables me to do any modifications solo. It looks like the only stationary thing is the sink. Other than the kiln, which can still be moved if needed, you'll be able to shift things around as your studio grows (additional supplies, ect.) to suit your work space flow and overhead lighting system.

Your walls will be a big space saver with the addition of either peg or slat board.