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Author Topic: Tumbling blocks coasters  (Read 643 times)
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Shereen
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« on: March 02, 2010, 12:15:37 AM »
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I hope this is the right area to post this. I started doing this as my second Multi glass project out of cut-off bullseye glass I got VERY cheap.  1 8x2 inch cut off makes 15-16 diamonds (which I'm learning as I got to make) .  My mom and sister both weave and make handmade items with the Llamas and  goats they raise. I want to give them each a set of coasters IF they turn out ok.   Is it best to put the clear glass on top or the bottom?   Keeping in mind my diamonds are not absolutely perfect. These are the first I have made.  If I put the clear glass on the bottom would it be better if the diamonds don't touch everywhere? I'll try my best to make them touch, but they're not perfect.  They do meet about 95% but will the glass "mend" better if the clear is on the bottom?  I have never made anything this complicated in my 6weeks and have never taken any classes of any kind. It's people like YOU who have helped me and I can't thank you all enough!

Shereen

This is not the way I'm going to set up the colors- I was just playing around
« Last Edit: March 02, 2010, 12:18:08 AM by Shereen » Logged
nansea121
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« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2010, 07:30:26 AM »
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Quilt patterns are fun to make! A clear glass on the top will give a sense of depth and should be slightly larger than the bottom layer so the outer edge will line up evenly with the bottom layer after it's been fired.

You could grind the few diamond sections that are a bit uneven with the grinder using an older grinding bit to eliminate chipping. Try using a small brush to scrub out the fine glass powder while the glass piece is being washed to prevent devit or matte finish.

I'm learning right along with ya:)
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Shereen
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« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2010, 12:38:36 AM »
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Thank you Nancy, I'm not sure if I'm going to make the coasters square not, it would be easier than the hexagon which i was having trouble making a template for. 
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nansea121
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« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2010, 06:28:29 AM »
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I have good luck lining everything up when I use a strip cutter. Once the strips are cut, I reposition the bar to make identical angle cuts with the help of small adjustable stops. When it's all set up, i just go zip, zip, zip and voila - all the glass pieces are the same with no grinding.
At home I have Cutter's Mate and down here at Dan's, we have the Beetle System. Thanks Ray!!! I wouldn't be without them now:)
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Kev
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« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2010, 07:41:45 AM »
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I think they look really cool the way the are, and those little spaces should fill in. I usually put the clear on top of mine.
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nansea121
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« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2010, 08:55:49 AM »
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... it would be easier than the hexagon which i was having trouble making a template for. 

Do you have Glass Eye or another computer drawing program Shereen? That's a great place to make up geometrical designs. I could make you a template if you like?
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Becki
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« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2010, 08:59:55 AM »
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It really doesn't matter whether the clear goes on top or bottom...just depends on what you're doing and the look you want.  If I'm using a clear layer on top I usually cut it the same size as my bottom piece.  The only time I cut a bit larger is when I'm using two different colors and want the top to slump down over the bottom to make a nice edge.

The tiny spaces between the pieces will almost always fill in but it still may show up as a space when held to the light. If this is not important then don't worry about it.  If you grind the pieces, as Nancy suggested, drop them into a container of water to keep them wet until you're ready to clean them...then scrub the hell out of the edges to get rid of any grinder crud.  An ultra fine grinder bit will take off a little glass at a time and not chip.
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Judy K
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« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2010, 07:56:36 PM »
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Also, think about bubbles. With all those wonderful pieces you have room for air to get trapped. I would cut a clear hex and put the colors on top. No trapped air pockets. You may get little bits of clear showing between each color.

Then if you want the clear on top you could turn it over and fire again to 1380 to fire polish it.

I, too , try to avoid grinding on fused progects. It is hard to get them totally clean and avoid divit crud. The bucket of water idea works fairly well.

They are cute!
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Becki
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« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2010, 09:19:13 PM »
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Also, think about bubbles. With all those wonderful pieces you have room for air to get trapped. I would cut a clear hex and put the colors on top. No trapped air pockets. You may get little bits of clear showing between each color.

Then if you want the clear on top you could turn it over and fire again to 1380 to fire polish it.

I don't totally agree with this.  I fire cut pieces face down capped with clear frequently for crisper lines (to be followed by a flip and re-fire) and have no problem with bubbles. That's not to say that they can't happen but with a conservative schedule there's little risk of bubbles. A bubble squeeze can always be added to the schedule but I've never found it necessary. 
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Shereen
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« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2010, 01:24:17 AM »
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Gosh, Now I have a BUNCH of questions.      What do you like using a Morton or beetle bit system?   I was having problems  keeping the cutter Absolutely straight . Does the beetle bit work better? The rail system is on sale for 25.00  so I'm wondering if I can use it with the Morton system I have my Moms now- which is the old one - anyone try the beetle bits yet?

Yes, I do have glasseye - haven't  used it much yet- it''s new - The problems I was having with the hexagon was- I made 3x4 rectangle and then tried to figure out how to remove the triangle-ish pieces to make the hexagon  -  I'll give it a try!

Next, I was looking for bubble powder in 90 coe- does it come that way?   

Thank you!!!!
Shereen
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Becki
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« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2010, 06:16:24 AM »
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Next, I was looking for bubble powder in 90 coe- does it come that way?   

Thank you!!!!
Shereen

Bubble powder will work with any coe.  Some artists also use borax or baking soda to get a bubble effect.
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nansea121
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« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2010, 06:43:52 AM »
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What do you like using a Morton or beetle bit system?   I was having problems  keeping the cutter Absolutely straight . Does the beetle bit work better? The rail system is on sale for 25.00  so I'm wondering if I can use it with the Morton system I have my Moms now- which is the old one - anyone try the beetle bits yet?

Yes, I do have glasseye - haven't  used it much yet- it''s new - The problems I was having with the hexagon was- I made 3x4 rectangle and then tried to figure out how to remove the triangle-ish pieces to make the hexagon  -  I'll give it a try!

We have the Cutter's Mate & Beetle Bits systems. A couple of years ago we had the opportunity to go to Ray's house where he makes his products and he pointed out that Morton's waffle grid's holes are a different size from his, so the 2 different cutters products (Morton's and Ray's) are not interchangable. The waffle grids for Beetle Bits and Cutter's Mate's were designed by him and fits all of his products. I wouldn't be without a cutting system like that now and find that I use it on a regular bases, especially when I make panel lamps.

You have the 30 day trial period for glass eye? If so, try to play around with it before the 30 day period ends. I spent about an hour an evening with it and went through the tutorial, step by step. I found that reading ahead only made things more confusing. My advice is to stick with each step and don't leave it until it's totally understood and to work right along with it. They show you some really neat tricks with the key board as well. You'll find it invaluable when it comes time to designing cartoons for stained glass work. No erasing! And changes are as easy as a click of a button.  Friends
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Alan
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« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2010, 08:36:10 AM »
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Yes, I do have glasseye - haven't  used it much yet- it''s new - The problems I was having with the hexagon was- I made 3x4 rectangle and then tried to figure out how to remove the triangle-ish pieces to make the hexagon  -  I'll give it a try!
In the Draw drop down menu, click on Drawing Properties, in the Polygon drawing window, put 6 and click on OK, then back in the Draw drop down menu, click on Polygon - that will cause the pencil to show up - drag the mouse for the size you want and click - instant hexagon. From there you can do most anything you want with the polygon.
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Rebecca
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« Reply #13 on: March 04, 2010, 12:10:41 PM »
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I have never tried Morton's system with Ray's grids, but I use both Morton's gids and Ray's for the Cutters' Mate and the Beetle Bits system.  No problem at all.  It might be that Morton's stuff doesn't work with Ray's grids.

Rebecca
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nansea121
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« Reply #14 on: March 04, 2010, 02:16:59 PM »
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I have never tried Morton's system with Ray's grids, but I use both Morton's gids and Ray's for the Cutters' Mate and the Beetle Bits system.  No problem at all.  It might be that Morton's stuff doesn't work with Ray's grids.

Rebecca
When we were at his place, he showed us a sample of his grid along with a Morton one and we could see that they were built differently and the hole spacings were also abit different. I think that's what he meant by not being interchangable.
« Last Edit: March 04, 2010, 02:19:00 PM by nansea121 » Logged
nansea121
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« Reply #15 on: March 04, 2010, 02:21:56 PM »
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In the Draw drop down menu, click on Drawing Properties, in the Polygon drawing window, put 6 and click on OK, then back in the Draw drop down menu, click on Polygon - that will cause the pencil to show up - drag the mouse for the size you want and click - instant hexagon. From there you can do most anything you want with the polygon.

Geee... I haven't tried that feature out yet. Thanks Alan!!!
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Shereen
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« Reply #16 on: March 07, 2010, 10:47:42 PM »
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Thank you ray, it worked like a charm!
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