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Scooch
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« on: February 21, 2010, 03:26:24 PM » |
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I just finished the habiscus panel. This panel will go under the tiger lilly that I did a while back. My question is this...
What do you think would be the best way to 1) hang the top panel (by this I mean attachments to the came on the top panel) and 2) what do you think would be the best way to link the 2 panels together.
I know that jump rings would be enough on the top panel to support it's weight. I an not sure they would be sufficient to support the weight of both panels.
The 2 panels will be approx. 2" apart
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Kev
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« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2010, 05:14:33 PM » |
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What kind of frame are you using Scooch? My suggestion would be to attach loops at the bottom of the bottom panel and near the top and repeat on the upper panel, and then use a braided wire running up through all the rings on both panels and create hanging loops at the ends of the wires. The wire I think is called airplane wire? You can get it at Lowe's or Home Depot. It's like the kind used on garage doors. It's very strong and a very small profile.
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nansea121
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« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2010, 05:49:01 PM » |
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Another thing to consider, if you were framing those panels with zinc, the strongest place to add hangers would be at the sides of the panel. That way, all the weight will be supported by the whole length of side frame rather than just by a soldered joint towards the middle.
I'm pretty sure I saw a drawing of that. Perhaps from you Graham?
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« Last Edit: February 21, 2010, 06:10:12 PM by nansea121 »
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JoanFrances
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« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2010, 06:33:56 PM » |
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That was my thought too Nancy. The pull of the second piece may be to great to put the loops at the bottom of the upper panel.
If you use the drapery haning pins (like is shown in the gallery), your chain will be consistant for both the top panel and bottom and not look disjointed.
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Scooch
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« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2010, 07:18:36 PM » |
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The attachment points will be on the side pieces. It is framed in brass came. I had thought about the drapery hooks, but don't like the way they look. At least not for this piece.
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Glassic
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« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2010, 07:23:53 PM » |
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What about ladder chain? it can run the perimeter and you will have the weight supported in a sling.
I have a problem with drapery hooks [pin hooks as they are known as elsewhere] I have worked with them on and off for over 30yrs and they are not as strong as they may seem.
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Kev
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« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2010, 08:10:35 PM » |
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I've had no problems at all with the hooks, but obviously they have a weight limit. A very large panel in my opinion should not be hung from a hanger with a single point of attachment.
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JoanFrances
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« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2010, 08:37:53 PM » |
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my 36" square beveled panel hasn't shown any stress, from using the drapery pins, and has been hanging almost a year
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Glassic
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« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2010, 08:55:48 PM » |
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I'm not talking a year, I've removed hundreds of drapes that have been on windows for years and because those hooks are so pliable they may have been bent onto the tracks and returns. Many of the bent ones were rusted and so were easily snapped in half to take them off the tracks. This is just my observation and something noted over many years of making drapes. Something else to note, some are stainless, and stronger I guess, but I wouldn't trust them over time.
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nansea121
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« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2010, 07:10:27 AM » |
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I vote for a few links from a sturdy chain that available in different styles and gauges to get the 2" spacing you're looking for. Another idea I've done for larger panels is to drill a hole right through the 2 upper frame corners and pass a link through there. You wouldn't see the holes at all and and it would make for a very secure place to hang from. I first saw that idea in a tutorial but I'll be danged if I can remember where.
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nansea121
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« Reply #10 on: February 22, 2010, 08:16:33 AM » |
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Another thought... if you opt to drill holes in the corners of the zinc frame and you decide to use a few links of a chain, make sure that the placement of the holes are the same in both ends so the lower panel will hang level. If you find that it does hang abit crooked, you could try using some heavy wire inserted into the holes and add the chain links to that wire. That way, the length can be adjusted.
How big are your panels? For smaller panels, I just solder handy hangers to the sides, but from inside the zinc came (as the directions that comes with them suggests) instead on the outsides, for a clean and neat look. Some like to solder them from the outside, either at the the side back or to the side. You'd see the soldering if they were placed along the outer side, but not noticeable if they were applied to the backside.
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« Last Edit: February 22, 2010, 08:30:49 AM by nansea121 »
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Scooch
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« Reply #11 on: February 22, 2010, 08:42:16 AM » |
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The panels are 30"x25".
The framing is brass came.
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TodB
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« Reply #12 on: February 22, 2010, 09:28:42 AM » |
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Scooch:
This will also work but I can't say if it will be acceptable from an aesthetic perspective.
Put hanging hooks in the upper corners of each panel; hang attractive chains long enough to reach the lower panel and hook each panel onto the free-hanging chain. This leaves everything independent and easily rehung later if you wish, plus the frame-strength question is completely irrelevant.
- Tod
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Kev
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« Reply #13 on: February 22, 2010, 09:40:12 AM » |
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I like that idea Tod.
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nansea121
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« Reply #14 on: February 22, 2010, 09:50:10 AM » |
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That's another good alternative Tod! Would you solder in the hooks to the brass came or use an S hook onto a drilled hole?
Care would still be needed when adding those hooks so the lower panel would hang straight. Either way, a long chain or a couple of chain loops between the 2 panels would make for a nice strong hold and both ideas would be adjustable.
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Kev
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« Reply #15 on: February 22, 2010, 09:52:27 AM » |
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My thought is by adding chain links and suspending the 2nd panel from the first is that the top hangers on the top panel are then carrying the full load of both panels.
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nansea121
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« Reply #16 on: February 22, 2010, 09:56:48 AM » |
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A strong, long shanked hook screwed into the upper window casing would support either a long chain or sections of short chain.
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nansea121
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« Reply #17 on: February 22, 2010, 10:02:10 AM » |
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I really like the idea of using hooks. Thanks Tod:)
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TodB
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« Reply #18 on: February 22, 2010, 12:35:16 PM » |
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I'm glad the idea has some appeal.
I would probably create loops at the top corners and use S-hooks to grab the chain.
I like to dummy up concepts when I'm looking at things like this, so I might just see how the brass came and chain look together, then find a complementary S-hook. Brass S-hooks sould be available in a variety of sizes.
I recommend long threads on the screw hooks; cup hooks are not meant for hefty stuff. A thread should penetrate the wood an inch and the hook should be rated for the expected load (times two or more, IMHO). I think it's best to put the screw hooks on the sides of the window frame, but that's not always possible. Be sure there's real solid wood up there!! Have fun - Tod
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